It was dawn when my plane touched down in Iceland. I don’t remember sleeping much on the plane because it was light most of the time…and there must have been a baby aboard. By dallying around the airport a lot I missed the first Flybus out.
The Flybus is more or less the only way from the airport to Reykjavik. They come in frequent intervals for a period after planes land, but if you miss those rounds, it may be a long wait until the next one. It costs about 1950 ISK or $17 CAD. Flybus also offers in between trips to Blue Lagoon for people wanting to go there right after landing or just before boarding a flight. It’s also a good pamper spot on stopover journeys.
The airport is a great place to stock up on all the information pamphlets you need, and will prepare you for later if you’re going all around Iceland. A small tourist desk will also give you a few travel tips. One thing I learned is how much my Frommer’s guide beefs up small cities. I had originally intended to go and check out Keflavik before catching the Flybus into the capital, but as I spoke to people around me, learned that Keflavik is essentially just an airport city…and that the sites listed in my book are literally squeezed out to make the place sound more interesting. Now, I will never know the exact truth since I didn’t end up going into Keflavik, being a rather expensive taxi ride out, but I’d like to think I don’t regret it much.
I got my first taste of Icelandic scenery on the ride to Reykjavik.
Snow. And rock.
I remember panicking slightly at the sight of the snow, thinking that I perhaps underestimated the spring weather. As it turned out, the snow was the last of the season, and was there mostly because in the midst of barren lava fields, there wasn’t much activity that would disturb or melt it.
Upon arriving at the BSI terminal, I felt like I had to reassess my opinion that all Icelanders are extremely friendly people (as said in my guidebooks, online and wherever else). The bus driver snubbed me when I tried to ask him a question, and drove off without any further instruction of where I was supposed to go. Feeling a little put out, standing outside the bus terminal with a heavy rucksack, disoriented, I meandered indoors and proceeded to prod every worker there on where the heck I was and where was I supposed to go.
If you are not dropped off at a hotel by the FlyBus (extra cost), then the next stop you should take – and the one I took – is to ask for directions to the main Tourist Information Centre. After having directions drawn out on a Reykjavik map, I walked there. It’s only 15 minutes, and while seemingly daunting upon entering a new city, it’s straightforward and saves money on transport. The main Tourist Information Office is on Adalstraeti 2 (Tel. +354-590-1510), and looks like a charming, beige, box-like farmhouse structure which is reminiscent of Danish architecture as far as I know. There are a number of other centres around the city but I liked this one the best, and used it as a base of all my information needs.

Main Tourist Info Centre (right)
It was at the information centre where I contacted Katla, my first couchsurfing host on this journey. After a short rest, I took another walk toward the west of the city where her apartment lay. Katla was a warm and generous host with a darling toddler son. I didn’t get a chance to speak with her much since she was on her way out, but she was kind enough to give me run of her place. I think I was pretty spoiled by her since I was allowed to use her internet, given keys, everything that was needed to make me feel right at home. Because it was Monday, many museums were sadly closed, but it was for the best… When I sorted out the contents of my rucksack a bit, I was dismayed to discover I had forgotten my waterproof pants. So I ended up spending the afternoon searching for a pair, because like I said in my previous post, absolutely necessary if hiking Iceland.
In a nutshell, I ended up visiting the edges of Reykjavik Harbour where the outlets lay, looking for a pair of pants. While I did manage to stock up a bit of food, no rain gear. Let me a take a moment to say that fruits and vegetables are really expensive! Furthermore, not very fresh…most of that is due to the reliance on imported produce, although with the growth of geothermal greenhouses on the rise, I’m excited to say that Iceland should soon have an increase in local produce.
In the end, I had to go back to city central and visit the larger brand stores. You can find these stores on Bankastraeti or Laugavegur (the shopping street). Two of Iceland’s largest outdoor gear stores are:
- 66o North - Super expensive! It was nearly $500 for a pair of pants! This is the uber brand name of outdoor gear. I’m sure their things are great…but as a backpacker, I certainly had no money for that luxury. (www.66north.com)
- Cintamani – I didn’t visit this one, but I’ve seen enough people wear it to know that it’s another top brand. What I have heard is that it’s the upstart competitor of 66 North. (www.cintamani.is)
The one I visited after a mad dash out of 66 North was ICE Wear (www.norwear.com), right across the street. Feeling a little rush as the stores were about to close, I settled to purchase the still expensive but more reasonable $200 pants that they had. For what it’s worth, they were pretty geared up with many interesting and useful accessories such as hooks to attach to boot laces, which sealed up the cuff around the boot. In addition, their guarantee extends internationally. What drew me to make the purchase was the fascinating salesperson, Cyprian, a documentary film maker from Kenya. Iceland has been a rest stop for him while he was finalizing papers to gain entrance to Somalia for his next film. He has taken this time to even learn some Icelandic, what a guy.
(At this point…I realized that WordPress failed to save my last draft…and now I’m behind on my writing. I really dislike rewriting things, so forgive me that the following details may seem more bluntly written)

Reykjavik City Centre
I had a bit of social time once I finished shopping, and met with Sven, a guy from Belgium doing a journalism piece on the one year anniversary of the 2010 eruption. A very fascinating traveler – he actually hitchhiked to London from Belgium, and then flew from there! I was very impressed by his ambitiousness of traveling cheap. It’s not the most epic that I’ve heard to date, but certainly impressive nonetheless. One great story I heard is about a girl who hitchhiked around Europe, and would work to make enough money to continue traveling. When she was up north, while working at a dock, she met a boat sailing to the US, and she ended up going to the States with them. Amazing.
Going for coffee, I started to understand just how small this country is. Over this trip, there are many coincidental meetings and encounters that will illustrate the population size. Let me elaborate. A month before my trip, I was in communication with a girl who told me of her roommate whom worked at a cafe. While at the cafe, Sven asked around to see if there was a couch he could surf on for the night. Upon asking the waitress, she goes and tells me about how her colleague’s roommate does couchsurfing. Putting together the pieces, I realized it was the same girl! What a coincidence.
There are strangely many Canadians in Reykjavik right now. When I stopped at the hostel where Sven was staying, I met a guy from Guelph working at the hostel, and a few travelers from Ottawa and Toronto. I also met these four German girls who did a four month world journey as a graduation celebration. It seemed to be an incredible deal that they got on their flights- European Airlines certainly do better deals than Air Canada.
When I parted with Sven a couple hours later, I didn’t think I would see him again so soon. The walk back to Katla’s place was a very quiet one. With a third of Iceland’s population in Reykjavik, there is still only about 120 000 people. The city was very silent in the evening, and I was pretty amazed by how few people I saw walking about, even in the city centre. Back at Katla’s place, she shared her couchsurfing experiences with me, and also told me about some of the other hosts of the city. One of them had offered to host me, but I was not keen to accept based on her references, and Katla backed them up. I won’t spread names, but this woman has reputedly the most dirty place, allows loads of people to come and go as they please, and guests’ things have been stolen. Moreover, she has once put guests up with her ex husband, because she didn’t have space! Did I mention that he was not exactly willing either? Dear oh dear…
Sven, in the meantime, had submitted a request to Katla without my knowing (since she hadn’t responded yet), and she agreed to host him, having traveled to Belgium before. Again, small country…same faces.
So that night, it was a little party of three that night of exhausted travelers and a gracious host.